chowe10

Isaias Wreaks Havoc on New England

Mon, 26 Oct 2020 12:31:36 GMT

Isaias Brings People Together Through Meteorological Misfortune

How are things in your corner of the world? New England was dealt a doozy this past week when Tropical Storm Isaias came ripping through on Tuesday. We were without power for 5 days but avoided any real damage to our house and property. Plenty of debris to clean up, but overall, no big deal. Lots of people weren’t as lucky though - my sister had a big branch tear through her garage and in the 0.9 miles between my house and hers, three families had trees fall onto their upstairs bedrooms. Thankfully, nobody in town was hurt. It was neat to see people coming together after the storm. Tropical storms, flood, drought and all other matter of meteorological misfortune (for all their hardship) brings people together. I think that everyone was extra eager to lend a helping hand just so that we could all spend time with others! After the skies cleared and the winds died down, our neighborhood had an impromptu block party as people emerged from their houses to assess the damage. Folks stayed socially distant, but it was the first gathering I’ve been to since before I left for Nepal in March (well, Amsterdam, as fate would have it...) seeing people working together to support one another turned a horrible experience into something a bit wonderful!

Dashain 2020 - Best Wishes to All

Wed, 21 Oct 2020 19:01:44 GMT

Best Wishes for Dashain 2020!

Nepal has been on my mind a little extra over the last few days. I’ve spoken with several friends there recently as they gear up for Nepal’s biggest festival, Dashain (pronounced dah-sain). It’s the longest, most auspicious festival of the year and celebrates the victory of good over evil - a common theme in Nepali festivals and Hindu mythology! This festival lasts fifteen days in total and celebrates the slaying of buffalo demon Mahisasur by Goddess Durga (a lion-riding, shape-shifting badass who takes on nine different forms!) in a battle that lasted nine days.

The first nine days of the festival represent Durga’s different forms and the nine day long battle between good and evil. The 10th day signifies Durga’s victory over Mahisasur and the last five days are spent celebrating the victory of good over evil.

Dashain is a time for families to come together. People working overseas return to Nepal and many people in Kathmandu go home to their villages. Gifts are exchanged, huge bamboo swings are constructed and it’s tradition to fly kites this time of year. Thousands of animals (mostly chickens, goats and water buffalos) are sacrificed at temples to appease Durga. Interestingly enough, although many Hindus follow a vegetarian sattvic diet, which is said to purify the body and mind, it’s believed that the meat from a sacrificed animal won’t interfere with the mind/body purification that comes from this way of eating. Meat is also quite expensive in Nepal, so for many, Dashain is the only time they’ll get to indulge all year. Mostly, Dashain brings about a feeling of joy and closeness throughout the country. It really is a wonderful festival and a fabulous time to visit Nepal!

सथिहरु, दशैले तिमिहरुको जिवनमा खुसी समृद्दि लिएर आओस्। Friends, may Dashain bring happiness and prosperity to your life!

Central Montana in Wheat Harvesting Season

Mon, 28 Sep 2020 16:27:37 GMT

Sunsets, Silos and Free Spirits in Moore

We're enjoying a pretty laid back schedule here at the farm, filling our days with long walks, yoga, and reading. Central Montana’s wheat harvest is in full swing, and as I type this, I can hear the drone of combines in the fields closest to the house. The weather here is wonderfully unpredictable - it was nearly 90 degrees yesterday, dipped below freezing last night and the mercury won’t reach 60 degrees today. It strikes me how resilient the animals here must be to survive such fierce swings in temperature.

We have a series of old circular, wooden granaries on our property. They’ve all seen better days - a patchwork of old licence plates struggles to keep grain from spilling out of the holes that have been kicked into the sides by agitated bulls and years of harsh weather - but I love them dearly because my great grandfather, an inventor described by many as a wild and eccentric man, designed and built them by hand. There’s a great grey owl who’s been visiting these granaries nightly (most likely to feast on the mice who stop by for a nibble of escaped wheat) at the same time that we take our evening walks. Watching him silently swoop over us has been a daily highlight. On our walk back to the house, after the sun has dropped behind the Little Belts, the stars are spectacular. Speaking of - I’ve been using the coolest app called Night Sky . My dad is the astronomer in the family, but this has been a great tool in his absence. Sunsets, silos and free spirits in Moore, Montana - I highly recommend it!

Connecticut to Montana Road Trip: Part 2

Tue, 25 Aug 2020 12:47:34 GMT

Day 2 - Wisconsin, North Dakota and Montana

OK, so we awoke in the Wisconsin Dells a little worse for wear after driving for sixteen hours yesterday. The only traffic we hit was in Minnesota; a big truck tipped over just outside of St. Paul, knocking the three lane highway down to a single lane just in time for rush hour. An interesting thing starts to happen somewhere in Minnesota - the trees gradually start to get shorter and spaced further apart until eventually, somewhere in North Dakota, you hit the plains where there aren’t any trees at all. But what North Dakota lacks in trees, they make up for in sunflowers - gigantic yellow fields of sunflowers! It’s the most glorious sight. We hit Montana in the early evening, and the sun started setting just after we passed through the bustling metropolis of Circle, population 600. Montana is hazy with wildfire smoke, but the particle-filled air made for a stunning sunset and turned the tiny sliver of a moon a brilliant red. The last leg of the trip was a slog as we passed a hundred or more deer, many with little spotted babes, and none overly concerned with getting out of the middle of the narrow, dark road. Thankfully, we made it to the farm without impacting Montana’s deer population.

It feels really good to be here. This is the farm where my dad grew up and where my brother, sister and I spent a good portion of our childhood. Our days here are quiet and peaceful. We wake up early to watch the sun rise and then go on long sunset walks in the evenings, usually stopping to visit the quarter horses that spend the summer raising their babies in a nearby pasture. Dinners are simple, usually cooked on the grill and always served with a good glass of wine. It isn’t fancy, but it’s awfully special. Come visit if you happen to be in the area or if you’re looking for something to do in the next couple of weeks! We’d love to see you.

Connecticut to Montana Road Trip: Part 1

Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:03:44 GMT

Day 1 - Coastal Guilford to the Wisconsin Dells

Very early on Friday morning, my husband Chris and I loaded our dog, Tikka, into the car and departed coastal Guilford, Connecticut and set out for our little farm in central Montana. It was a relatively quick trip (we arrived the next evening) but driving that sort of distance is such a wonderful way to see the country. We made it to New York City just as the sun came up and Manhattan looked incredible in the morning light. Somewhere in western Pennsylvania, the forested landscape of the northeast gives way to the deep green farmland of the midwest, with cornfields and painted red barns aplenty. We stayed in The Dells, Wisconsin on Friday night, at a hotel that advertised its clean rooms - a seemingly important selling point during a pandemic.

The next morning we got a luxurious 7:00 start and were back on the road after finding some good coffee to get us through the next stretch of road. Have you ever spent any time in western Wisconsin? Westnern Wisconsin has to be one of the prettiest parts of the country (which is maybe something people there are trying to keep secret because no one EVER talks about how beautiful it is!) and Saturday morning’s drive did not disappoint. It had rained overnight and the rolling hills were draped in the most beautiful mist and the light was spectacular as it streamed down through thin clouds layered at varying altitudes. I spotted three bald eagles that morning!

Sip 'N' Dip, Piano Pat and the O'Haire Motor Inn

Mon, 03 Aug 2020 17:12:26 GMT

A Tiki Bar with Mermaids, Scorpion Bowls and Vintage Decor

When I was a little girl, my family kept a car at an old self-storage unit in Great Falls, Montana. Our flight into Great Falls would arrive late, so sometimes we’d spend the evening at the nearby O’Haire Motor Inn (home of the world famous Sip’n’Dip Lounge) before picking up our car the next morning to head to the farm. It was a smokey old motel with cheesy western art on the walls and beds that would vibrate if you could convince your parents to give you a quarter to feed the machine affixed to the wall above the nightstand. In the morning, we’d have hash browns and sausages for breakfast at their little diner-like restaurant where men in cowboy hats would line up at the counter on plastic-upholstered swivel stools to drink black coffee out of thick white mugs and discuss things like the price of wheat and trucks and motor oil. I’d always order a hot chocolate, which was served in the same white mug, in hopes of being invited over to the counter to join in the conversation. That never happened. Anyway, I loved this hotel. The best part about the O’Haire Motor Inn was the pool, which was housed in a tiled room with great acoustics but too much humidity. My brother, sister and I always had the pool to ourselves (which, in hindsight, was probably because the pool was gross. But I was like, six, and my parents were exhausted from traveling with three kids all day, so our standards were pretty relaxed all around…) and with nobody to get in our way or tell us to be quiet, we would loudly dare each other to swim to the deep end because the deep end of that pool held a great secret - an underwater window that looked into the Sip’n’Dip Lounge. This meant you could swim up to the window (usually while pretending to be a dolphin or a seal) and wave at the cowboys at the bar and to the old lad y who was always there. It was exhilarating. And probably pretty damn weird for the people at the bar. Years later, when the O’Haire Motor Inn and the Sip’n’Dip Lounge were on the brink of closure, they started hiring locals to dress up like mermaids and swim in the pool to entertain bar patrons. A vintage Tiki bar decor, scorpion bowls, live music from Piano Pat ,and of course the mermaids, turned out to be a better business formula than a bar looking into an empty pool with the occasional elementary school kid swimming by. The Sip’n’Dip was eventually named by GQ magazine as the #1 bar worth traveling to and both it and the O’Haire Motor Inn are still thriving (and weird!) today. What a success!

Namaste,Shelby

Just a Poem - Morgan Harper Nichols

Mon, 03 Aug 2020 13:54:21 GMT

Morgan Harper Nichols

grace

you have never shamed the waves

for not arriving on the ocean shore

any sooner than they were meant to,

and you have never looked above you

to guilt the cloud for taking her time

as she crosses the noonday sky.

you simply accept

that she must travel

at the pace

she needs to.

oh,

what a difference

it would make

if you gave yourself

this same grace.

Dreaming of Nepal, When Will We Travel Again?

Mon, 27 Jul 2020 15:51:16 GMT

I Dream of Nepal A Lot. Particularly Now...

Last night I had a wonderfully vivid dream that I was back in Nepal. The dream started in Kathmandu with a taxi ride to the airport to greet people for a trip...It was morning. The car’s windows were rolled down and I could smell incense wafting through the air. I saw people in brightly colored clothes out for their morning walks as we whizzed past temples and roadside deities. The taxi driver had to swerve several times to avoid dogs searching for scraps of food and we passed cows meandering in the streets. Then we were all in the mountains. It was really sunny and there was snow on the ground. Inside the guest house, people were gathered around the stove drinking tea. Everyone was laughing and happy and there was some sort of big climbing team staying at the same lodge with us who were preparing to summit a nearby mountain. They told us about their climbing route and we all went outside to look at the peak. There was a magical moment, when I was somewhere between asleep and awake, that I was convinced that I would open my eyes and actually be there….but alas, not yet. Soon though, soon...

Fireflies Have Arrived in Connecticut

Tue, 07 Jul 2020 14:26:10 GMT

Fireflies Delighted in Guilford Last Night

This week, the fireflies arrived in Connecticut. I’ve always loved this time of year when at dusk, thousands of tiny, magic bursts of bioluminescence start exploding in the night air. These fairy-like creatures only stick around for a few weeks (their mating season has just begun, and both male and female die after they do the deed...whatta way to go!) but we’re now in the midst of the most enchanting part of summer. I’m looking forward to night hikes and evenings around the fire. What’s new with you? I hope that you’re enjoying warm weather, that you’re spending lots of time with the people you love and that your week ahead is filled with good food, great conversation and endless unexpected surprises.

Last night, the fireflies absolutely delighted with their magical evening dance.

What's on My Mind July 13th

1.// What’s happenin’ in Nepal these days?!? Well, the monsoon is in full effect. It’s hot and rainy in most parts of the country. There have been some big landslides, most notably in the western part of the country, and unfortunately a bunch of people died. The official number of covid cases has reached 16,945 and in total, there have been 38 virus-related deaths. One of the things the pandemic has had a huge impact on is the wedding industry. Weddings in Nepal are a wonderfully colorful, joyous, multi-day affair with lots of food, music and dancing and often, hundreds of guests. You know Nepalis love a good party! The wedding date is usually determined by astrologers who figure out the most auspicious dates to kick off a union to ensure a long, happy life together. People take this super seriously! This year though, lots of couples have had to postpone their weddings and will have to wait until a post-covid auspicious date comes along. Vogue wrote about Nepali weddings a few years ago if you’d like to read about what they’re like in a normal year! 2.// Is this raspberry cake not the most wonderful looking summer confection?!? 3.// Hahahaha!

4.// I’ve been listening to a lot of Nancy Wilson. That voice! 5.// Connecticut had a moody start this morning! 6.// I recently watched The Willoughbys on Netflix with my niece. What a fun movie! It’s based on a book by Lois Lowry. This week, she and I are going to read The Giver together, which is by the same author but is a bit more serious. We’ve been reading together a lot this summer and I forgot how much fun it is to read out loud and to be read to!

7.// I was reminded of Marie Laurencin’s work this week while doing a creative project for a local business. Her paintings, which I find to be so feminine and lovely, often depict girlfriends hanging out, dogs and horses. By my estimate, these are the ingredients for a very happy life. Marie must have been a smart woman!

Lockdown Thai and Vietnamese Gardening

Mon, 22 Jun 2020 16:44:58 GMT

When in Lockdown - You Need To Grow Your Own Thorny Cilantro

This week I found delight in the form of homegrown cilantro, which I planted about a month ago. I’ve had cilantro plants in the past that I purchased at the supermarket, but I grew this cilantro in a big old planter from a packet of seeds and MAN is it delicious! I’ve been putting it in curries and on tacos and sometimes I sneak a little sprig here and there to chew on because it’s just that good. I’ve also planted some Thai eggplants, holy basil, thorny cilantro, and Thai red and green bird peppers, but they both seem to be really slow growers. Patience! I’ve noticed that lots of people are planting gardens around town and I figure that’s a result of everyone being home with extra time on their hands and a residual fear of not being able to get food at the grocery store. I’m sure the deer in town are excited for all of the new salad bars that keep popping up! :)

May 18th - The Most Perfect Day of the Year

Mon, 18 May 2020 12:05:12 GMT

Why May 18th is My Favorite Day of the Year

When I was little, I had a dear friend named Katie French and it’s her birthday today. Katie and I were in the same class every year in elementary school and in about 3rd grade I noticed that May 18th was always an exceptionally good day. Each year on this day the weather seemed to be particularly good, there seemed to be a little bit of extra magic in the air and it was fun to celebrate a birthday, so I declared May 18th my favorite day of the year. I’ve celebrated this day every year since, a sort of secret holiday.

This year, May 18th was going to be EXTRA special (dare I say the best yet?!?) because I had plans to greet six incredible women at Tribhuvan International Airport and share with them their first taste of the wild, wonderful city that is Kathmandu. I have been looking forward to this day for MONTHS! And yet...

This morning I woke up in Connecticut. Happy to celebrate another May 18th. And yet….my heart ached for Kathmandu; for my friends who were supposed to be experiencing the excitement of a new place for the first time. And yet....I indulged in an extra long yoga practice this morning. Before dawn. I burned incense that I brought back from Namche Bazaar. I moved slowly. Pushed the sadness from my heart with my breath. Afterwards, I ground up cardamom, peppercorns and cinnamon and heaped sugar into milky tea so that I could start my day as if I were in Nepal. I saw fox kits on my walk this morning. The peonies in my front garden exploded in magnificent bloom today. My family is healthy. My friends are healthy. It’s a beautiful day here. Sunny. Warm. Breezy. Another really good May 18th.

There were thunderstorms in Kathmandu today. It’s unseasonably hot in the Valley right now. It’s unseasonably cold in the mountains. As Ehrmann writes in Desiderata: “And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should.” We will all meet in Nepal soon - when the time is just right.

What's on my My Mind May 18th, 2020

From the Pictures Above// (The numbers are small so you might have to guess)

1. This fancy fellow hangs out in Kathmandu Durbar Square with his very big Nepali flag and an even bigger smile. He’s one of my favorites.// 2. Yoga Doodles by Lili Chin// 3. Connecticut morning views// 4. As good as any advice I’ve ever come across// 5. Garden Buddha// 6. Sunset at the Monkey Temple, Kathmandu// 7. Prayer flags over one of my favorite restaurants in KTM...we’ll share a meal there!// 8. Pretty much sums up Self Isolation Sundays…// 9. Tengboche, morning rush hour // 10. Anyone want to meet in Montana once it’s safe to travel again? I’d love to have you all out to the farm...it’s not fancy, but the sunsets are really good! Something to tide us over until Nepal - even if it’s just a weekend!// 11. Painting by Nepali artist Tenin Norbu// 12. Climb that goddamn mountain// 13. Love in the sky// 14. Peaceful woman. Swayambhu. // 15. Boots on the ground. En route to Lukla, waiting at the airport in KTM// 16. Q: Weren’t you supposed to be in Nepal right now? A: UGH // 17. Balloons for sale in Pokhara.

Technology and Travel Equals A Good Thing

Wed, 06 Nov 2019 18:34:32 GMT

Keeping in touch from afar

Technology makes being away from home much easier now than it once was. How fortunate we are to live in a world with FaceTime and quick internet where keeping in touch from afar is so easy - even in very remote places! But I sure do miss my pup when I’m on the road...what do you miss most about home when you’re traveling?

Art in the Most Unexpected Places

Wed, 30 Oct 2019 11:34:04 GMT

Magic is always hidden right around the corner in the Kathmandu valley

In many neighborhoods in the Kathmandu valley buildings are tightly packed together and are often painted in pastel yellows, greens and pinks. Skinny, cool alleyways snake between these buildings and can be secret pathways to the local teas shop or to community temples, stupas and shrines. Around every corner there are hidden treasures just waiting to be discovered. In this case, I discovered some incredible street art.

Tihar - Nepali Festival of Lights, Color and Music

Sun, 27 Oct 2019 12:55:03 GMT

A Nepali festival of lights like no other - Tihar 2020

We came back to Kathmandu just in time for Tihar, the annual Festival of Lights. During Tihar, also known as Deepawali in Nepal and Diwali in India, candles, string lights and lanterns set the city aglow as an offering to Laxmi, the goddess of wealth and luck. Colorful garlands of marigolds are strung over doorways and windows. Crows, dogs and cows are celebrated and the festival ends with Bhaitikka, a day to celebrate brothers and sisters. There is a marvelous feeling of merriment in the air here. Last night we watched as groups of children ran from shop to shop singing and “collecting small money”. Entrances to homes and businesses are decorated with ornate rangoli made out of flowers, sand, lentils, rice and a generous sprinkling of sparkles to welcome Hindu gods and goddesses. Joy abounds during this festival and the streets are alive with singing and dancing. The days are now warm, the nights cool, and it is a particularly magical time here in Kathmandu. ��

A Friend Indeed! - Meet Ngima Sherpa!

Tue, 22 Oct 2019 11:46:48 GMT

Guide Extraordinaire! - Ngima Sherpa

Meet my good friend, Ngima Sherpa! He is 22 years old and from a small village in the Solukhumbu, about 3 days walk from Namche Bazaar. Ngima is our head porter and leads our incredible team of people who help us to carry our things while trekking. During the off-season, Ngima goes to Kathmandu where he is putting himself through English school (he’s working really hard and already his English is very good!) We feel incredibly lucky to have such kind, hard-working people as part of our MissAdventures family. He's amazing, a dear friend and truly a guide extraordinaire!

Nearing the End of the EBC Trek

Mon, 21 Oct 2019 07:15:57 GMT

A Little Sad It's Almost Over

EBC trek days 10 and 11: you know that you're nearing the end of the trek because the yaks start changing. Purebred yaks get uncomfortable at lower altitudes; their heavy hairy bodies much prefer the cooler temperatures of the high mountains. Most of the yaks you see at lower altitudes are actually a cow/yak hybrid called a dzo - and by the time you start seeing them again they look downright exotic. As you leave the cold, rocky terrain of the high Himalaya, you transition through an area of low brush before re-entering forest lush with rhododendrons and evergreens dripping with moss. The dry air gives way to heavier, moist air. It suddenly become warm and more humid and it's not long before your hiking in short sleeves again. The walk back from Lukla from Pheriche takes only two days. We spend the night in Namche Bazaar, which feels like a luxurious, cosmopolitan city after days living in smaller villages and more primitive tea houses. The next day's walk to Lukla is exciting and challenging - there is one (very big!) last uphill before you arrive in Lukla, which serves as a reminder of how hard you've worked to complete this trek. Just the act of walking into Lukla feels like a victory! Upon arrival we re-connected with old friends who joined us with a celebratory cup of tea. We flew out early the next morning, getting one final look at the mountains from the window of our tiny plan, before touching down amidst the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu. It was a great trek, but a little sad it's almost over.

Almost at Everest Base Camp - It's Amazing Everywhere

Sat, 19 Oct 2019 11:59:22 GMT

Lobuche to Gorak Shep to EBC and Kala Patthar (long day)

EBC Trek Day 8: we left Lobuche early; there was a lot to accomplish. We arrived in Gorak Shep by 9:00 - it’s the highest village on the trek at an elevation of 5,164m or 16,942ft and is a difficult place to live, even for just one night. With no running water, bitter cold temperatures and primitive lodging, it’s not exactly a Himalayan paradise. Nevertheless, it’s a necessary stop on the trek and it certainly feels like you’re having a proper adventure once there! We dropped our bags, had a quick bite to eat and then pushed on to Base Camp. EBC is quiet this time of year. In the spring, it’s a bustling city of tents filled with teams of hopeful summiteers, but in the autumn trekkers are free to explore the vacant, rocky footprint that remains. Base Camp is right at the foot of the infamous Khumbu Icefall and you can hear the glacier shifting while scouting the area. We spent a few minutes chatting with other trekkers, everyone buzzed from the excitement of finally reaching Base Camp (and perhaps also from the lack of Oxygen - EBC sits at an elevation of 17,600ft!) By the time we returned to Gorak Shep, we were fairly tired but the afternoon light was looking very pretty and I was interested in seeing Everest lit up by the setting sun. Ironically, you can’t see the summit of Everest from Base Camp, but there is a hill behind Gorak Shep that affords incredible views of the top. So at 3:30 I set out to climb Kala Patthar.

EBC Day 7 - Pheriche to Lobuce - It's a Long Day

Thu, 17 Oct 2019 12:07:52 GMT

The push to Thukla and finally Lobuce

EBC Trek Day 7: it was particularly cold when we woke up in Pheriche this morning. There was a hard frost overnight that made everything outside sparkle in the morning sun. As we made our way up the valley it was apparent just how thin the air is now. It’s natural to want to rush the flat parts, but at this altitude even the easy bits don’t feel so easy. Once we settled into a slow, steady pace, we were able to make good time to the village of Thukla, where we stopped for a cup of tea before tackling the steep wall that leads to the memorials for those who have died on Everest. It’s a really beautiful tribute - chortens of all different sizes and prayer flags hung amongst them - but it’s also a bit of a somber place. We rested there for a short time before pressing on to Lobuche where we’ll stay the night. After a quick lunch, we dropped our packs and climbed the ridge above Lobuche where we had amazing views of the Khumbu Glacier, Lhotse and Pumori. Getting enough sleep can be elusive at this altitude but is vital to staying healthy and strong, so now we are resting up - tomorrow’s another big adventure. Today definitely was a push, but it was worth it.

Acclimatization in Pheriche and Dingboche

Wed, 16 Oct 2019 12:17:32 GMT

Rest day in Pheriche - Views, Stupas and so many Yaks

EBC Trek Days 5 & 6: And just like that, we are in Pheriche, above the tree line and above the clouds. Yesterday we woke up in Tengboche. The walk from Tengboche to Pheriche leads you through a meandering rhododendron forest, through several bucolic villages and past a large yak pasture (yaks are everywhere) before you cut uphill to a ridge overlooking Pheriche. Once you crest that hill, you are in a completely different world. The colors are different. The smells are different. It’s cold. It’s windy. The air is really thin. It’s obscenely beautiful. It’s the moment in the trek that it really hits you: you are very high up in some really big mountains. As you may know, I’ve done this trek many, many times...arriving in Pheriche is ALWAYS exhilarating.

��

We acclimatized today by taking a hike high on the ridge (with its idyllic stupas and unbelievable views) which overlooks Pheriche and the neighboring village Dingboche. It was a fabulous way to spend the morning. We have been camped out this afternoon drinking tea and resting before we push on to Lobuce tomorrow.

Tengboche Sunrise - An Unparalleled Sight

Tue, 15 Oct 2019 13:08:34 GMT

A beautiful start in Tengboche before heading to Pheriche

Before heading on to Pherice, we decided to wake up early and witness the sky aglow above Everest and Ama Dablam. Tengboche was very quiet this morning; as the sun rose, it was absolutely still but for the sounds of the small bells affixed to the grazing yaks and ponies and the quiet chanting of the monks as they performed their morning rituals. It was so beautiful. It was magic.

Namche Bazaar To Tengboche - Another Tough Day

Mon, 14 Oct 2019 14:14:09 GMT

Goodbye Namche and on to Tengboche

EBC Trek Day 4: what a day! We had a spectacular hike from Namche to Tengboche and were lucky to have views of Everest and Ama Dablam for much of the day. Today’s hike has a very long downhill portion and finishes with a whopper of an uphill, but we were able to set a steady pace and the weather gods were smiling upon us, as we had another clear, cool day. Tonight is the last night that we’ll sleep below the tree line. Going to bed (really early!) feeling incredibly grateful for this time spent in my favorite mountains. Goodbye Namche Bazaar, we'll see you again in about a week on our return and hello to you Tengboche we are so happy yo be here.

Killing Time in Namche Bazaar - Acclimatizing

Sun, 13 Oct 2019 14:23:08 GMT

A day trip during Namche rest day

EBC Trek Day 3: after yesterday’s monster of a climb, today was an acclimatization day. We took a morning walk up and over the hill behind Namche Bazaar and then dipped down into the beautiful village of Khumjung after stopping for a cup of tea at the Everest View Hotel. It was a gorgeous day and our hike felt relatively easy without our packs (although the air is thin up here whether or not you’ve got a pack on!) To safely acclimatize, we climb high (we gained about 400 meters in elevation on our morning walk) and sleep low, so tonight we’re back in Namche before we hit the trail again tomorrow.

The Namche Wall - A Challenging Day

Sat, 12 Oct 2019 14:35:15 GMT

A tough day for sure (but for some even tougher)

EBC Trek Day 2: with a climb of over 3,000 vertical feet to reach Namche Bazaar, today’s hike has the most elevation gain on the entire Everest Base Camp trek. Thankfully the weather was cool and pleasant and we enjoyed some spectacular views. A challenging day like today brings people together and it was fun chatting with others on the trail. Since there are no roads in this part of the world, porters are required to carry in supplies by foot for both locals and visitors. We were passed many times by people carrying large, impossibly heavy loads in baskets held onto their backs with a strap that loops around their forehead. Very often, you’ll see them doing this in plastic sandals and typically with a friendly smile. I’m certain that each time we were passed by one of these incredible people, I could hear the universe whispering a gentle reminder to us that difficulty is relative and attitude is everything. A tough day for sure, but tougher days may lay ahead.

Flying into Lukla - Yep, That Lukla

Fri, 11 Oct 2019 15:49:05 GMT

Brace yourself...we're flying into Lukla

EBC Trek Day 1: an early start as we left Kathmandu at 3:30 am to make the 4 hour drive to Ramechhap to catch our flight to Lukla. The airport in KTM is undergoing upgrades, so they are redirecting the Lukla flights to/from a more remote airstrip. The airport near Ramechhap, a tiny little single runway, is in a beautiful valley so it made for a pretty flight this morning as we followed the river toward the high mountains. The flight to Lukla has a reputation of being a bit scary at times, though today’s flight was clear and smooth. Seeing those gigantic peaks through the front windows of the plane is always so damn cool. Our hike today was relatively easy, though adjusting to the altitude requires a slow and steady pace. We are staying the evening with friends who own a lodge in a village called Phakding. I have been staying with them since my first visit to the Solo Khumbu in 2004 and it’s always great to catch up with them. Time for sleep - a big day tomorrow as we climb to Namche Bazaar. If we get lucky with the weather, we’ll have a chance to catch our first glimpse of Everest on the way �� If you ever get the chance, take the Lukla flight but brace yourself for the ride of your life.

My 35 Year Love Affair with the Kingdom of Nepal

Thu, 10 Oct 2019 08:51:35 GMT

The Most Magical Place on Earth

Since arriving in Kathmandu, it has been an absolute whirlwind of catching up with old friends, celebrating a huge festival called Dashain and preparing for my upcoming trek to Everest Base Camp. More on that later...

I've been coming to Nepal since I was a little girl - that's me with my mama on my first visit when I was just two and a half (1984). Thanks to my amazing and adventurous parents (who weren't afraid to explore the far reaches of the globe with kids in a time before iPads...eek!). I've been hooked on this place for a really long time.

I've visited Nepal many times since this picture was taken - we did our first trek as a family when my little brother was just 7. We came back my senior year of high school to search for tigers in Chitwan and to explore Annapurna Base Camp. I lived here and worked as a guide after college.- and I just keep coming back! At this point I've completely lost track of how many time I've visited Nepal. There are not many places that simultaneously feel like home AND always feel like an extraordinary adventure. But really, there's magic in the air here...

It would be impossible to isolate what I love the most about Nepal. Of course, the people are amazing - the kindness and generosity that I encounter here on a regular basis are unmatched. The food is undeniably terrific - dal bhat power 24 hour! And the wild, hectic (and sometimes smelly) streets of Kathmandu are indescribably vibrant and real.

But certainly, the mountains are something I love most about Nepal. Tomorrow I fly to a village called Lukla to begin the journey to Everest Base Camp. This is a trek I've done many, many times and again - it doesn't get old. The majesty and peace of the mountains of the high Himalaya are second to none. It really is the most magical place on Earth!

An Encounter with a Regal Nepali in Patan

Tue, 08 Oct 2019 06:50:47 GMT

A truly wonderful moment in Patan Durbar Square

I was joined today by this gentle soul for a cup of tea this morning in Patan Durbar Square. She quietly sat with me at a small cafe and together we watched the world come to life. We laughed as two tiny kids scrambled up the steep steps of a nearby temple and she shook her head in amused disapproval as I gave a passing dog my biscuit and a pat on the head. She didn't speak English and my Nepali isn't good enough to ask her all the questions I would have loved to ask, but she was perfect company. It was a truly wonderful moment with someone so very special.

A Quick Trip to London with Family

Sat, 28 Sep 2019 16:00:08 GMT

Flowers, good times, family and a visit with a new baby

London! ��

��I am so lucky to be spending the week with my sister, niece on an incredible girls' trip. Yesterday we paid a visit to our honorary sister (my brother's long term girlfriend), her gorgeous sister and her sister's brand new baby for a cup of coffee in Notting Hill. I am so grateful to be in such a magical place with some of my favorite women.�� - and the flowers were beautiful too! So many good times and wonderful memories.

Dreaming of Nepal - Prayer Flags over the Solukhumbu

Thu, 05 Sep 2019 16:04:00 GMT

Thinking about my favorite place on Earth

Prayer flags flutter in the wind above the Solukhumbu. After being hung in high places, it is believed that the lungta, or wind horse, will carry the blessings on the flags to all beings. The prayers of the flags become a permanent part of the universe as the images fade from exposure to the elements. �� This got me thinking about Nepal, its people, beauty and challenges. It's definitely my favorite place on this planet to visit. Every time it's a little bit different - a little more amazing.

Hello Autumn - The First Touch of Frost

Mon, 02 Sep 2019 16:07:47 GMT

Things happen earlier in Montana

Closing out summer, ready to welcome autumn �� Being so far north and near the end of a time zone, it just feels like things happen earlier here: the first frost frost, the earlier sunsets, snow pouring from the skies.

There was a filmy veil of soft dull mist obscuring, but not hiding, all objects, giving them a lilac hue, for the sun had not yet fully set; a robin was singing...The leaves were more gorgeous than ever; the first touch of frost would lay them all low to the ground. Already one or two kept constantly floating down, amber and golden in the low slanting sun-rays.

- Elizabeth Gaskell, North and South

Teej - A Hindu Festival to Celebrate Women

Sun, 01 Sep 2019 16:11:34 GMT

A festival for women in Nepal

Today marks the beginning of the women’s festival Teej in Nepal. Over the next three days, women will dress in red and come together in song, dance and celebration. Red is the color worn by brides in Nepal and also symbolizes power.

��

Although traditionally Teej was an important religious festival for married women to fast and pray to Lord Shiva for the health and happiness of their husbands (and for unmarried women to pray for a husband) it was also an occasion for women to come together to share through song and dance accounts of their subordination and oppression. Thankfully times are changing and so is the meaning of this ancient festival.

��

Teej today is being redefined as a celebration of women’s empowerment. A time for both women and men to celebrate feminism.

��

So in the spirit of feminism and female empowerment - Happy Teej!

��❤️��

Hiking with Kids Locally - Westwoods

Mon, 19 Aug 2019 17:00:55 GMT

Getting kids outdoors

Monday morning excitement!! �� We’re taking some kids on a hike today who don’t ordinarily get to spend much time in the woods��Research shows that nature is REALLY good for kids (of all ages! ��‍♀️) in all sorts of ways and we are passionate about helping to get kids outside who don’t have easy access to trails. I’d love to hear about the last time you went exploring with a little one! Getting our kids outdoors is an absolute must. They'll thank us for it sometime down the road. #missadventures

��

Anyone Game for a Motorcycle Adventure?

Tue, 13 Aug 2019 17:06:25 GMT

Motorcycle road trips anyone?

Who’s down for a little motorcycle adventure? ��

What a great way to explore a country! A motorcycle allows for an incredibly rich road trip experience - the sounds, The smells, the feel of the air...what a way to take a place in! You feel closer to the wind and the earth, it's exhilarating. My brother and my Dad go on local road trips all the time, but when my brother was eighteen, they went on an epic motorcycle adventure from New England through the southern United States and then throughout Mexico for several weeks. They had a an absolute blast and it brought them closer together in ways that a trip by car or plane would not have. So, who's down for a little motorcycle adventure?

Toni Morrison - The Passing of an Icon

Wed, 07 Aug 2019 17:28:19 GMT

Toni Morrison. Thanks for everything.

“If you surrendered to the air, you could ride it.” -Toni Morrison

I was saddened to hear of Toni Morrison’s passing on Monday. I am writing from my family’s farm in Montana and this quote, from her book Song of Solomon, is something I thought about during last night’s sunset walk. Toni Morrison was not only an incredible story teller, but a determined, hardworking woman and single mother. May we all do something kind today in remembrance of this strong woman who contributed such meaningful beauty to our world through her words. Thanks for everything.

Dogs are the Best Unexpected Travel Surprise

Mon, 05 Aug 2019 17:40:05 GMT

A perk of being a grown up

When I was a little girl, I remember getting in trouble (a lot!) for petting stray animals on travels with my family - there were kittens in Greece, the fluffy white dog on the Annapurna trek who followed us for miles and miles and the monkey (named Mona Lisa!) in Bali who would steal our leftovers at breakfast �� I wanted to take every single beast home with me! Imagine my delight when these friendly faces �� came running up to me on a recent trip to Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni! One perk of being a grown up? I can pet all the strays I want ��

Miraflores Magic - A Visit to Larcomar

Thu, 01 Aug 2019 16:18:32 GMT

Worth a stop when in Lima

Lima’s Miraflores neighborhood is home to Parque del Amor, which overlooks the sea and was built to celebrate love in all of its forms. It’s best known for the large sculpture “El Beso” (“The Kiss”) by Peruvian artist Victor Delfín, but the mosaics along the undulating walls and benches are my favorite. Lines from Peruvian poets are included within the mosaics, including this one from Augusto Tamayo Vargas: “Tu estas por encima del infinito mar” or “You are above the infinite sea” �� - Also, Larcomar's shopping and cliffside restaurants are worth a stop while you're there.

Musings in Chiang Rai, Thailand

Mon, 29 Jul 2019 16:15:41 GMT

Inspiration in Thailand

Those who dwell among the beauties and mysteries of the earth are never alone or weary of life. Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts. The more clearly we focus our attention on the wonders and realities of the universe, the less taste we shall have for destruction.

��Rachel Carson - Marine Biologist. Author. Conservationist. Inspiration.

The Thrill of Travel - Sights, Sounds and Smells

Mon, 29 Jul 2019 14:08:11 GMT

Air travel has its joys

I’m still enamored with air travel, though I know I’m in the minority here. Arriving at the airport, the smell of jet fuel, the nervous energy of people in line to check bags and go through security – it all feels so exciting. The airport is a magical place where people are comfortable being open with their emotions – crying at the pain of saying goodbye, broad smiles and boisterous laughs when someone who’s been away for too long finally arrives, big hugs all around. I love imagining where people are going or where they’ve been, making up stories in my mind about what their lives are like; this is my favorite game to play as I board the plane. Takeoff remains one of the most exhilarating feelings in the world, and I will forever be in awe of the fact that hundreds of people at once can FLY places. I love the taste of orange juice once we’re in the air and crunching that thick ice between my teeth. I love watching movies until I fall asleep and I love listening to my favorite music, the steady hum of the engines in the background. On long haul flights, when the flight attendants come around with food for the people still awake in the middle of the flight, I never turn down the noodles or sandwiches on offer. I love to sneakily peek open my window shade (always a window seat for me, please!) to catch a glimpse of what’s below. I’ve seen the most incredible things from the seat of an airplane – crystal blue waters, gigantic mountains made to look small, glittery cities at night, sunrises, sunsets, brilliant full moons, lightning storms and on a few lucky flights, fireworks. I love to look down on the city where we’re landing, and if it’s a familiar place I’ll try and pick out landmarks that I know. The thud of the wheels hitting the tarmac and the feeling of the plane finding its footing on the runway and we’re finally there! At the gate, a quick gathering of my things, one final check of the seat back pocket (I’ve left more things on planes than I care to admit…) and away we go. A dying breed we are, those of us who can see the joy in modern-day flying, but next time you’re lucky enough to hop on a plane remember all of the magic that exists. Yes, there are negatives about flying, but it also has so many joys!

Trouble on Cotapaxi - Failed Summit Attempts

Sun, 28 Jul 2019 16:18:41 GMT

Sometimes things don't go as planned - Cotapaxi for example

�� Summit conditions were just awful that day - we left at 1 am in freezing rain and high winds and the team in front of us broke a cornice on the main route by sloppily laying a ladder about 200 meters from the summit. We were terribly disappointed not to make it to the top, but decided that it was too dangerous to continue given the snow conditions and the irresponsible team in front of us, who refused to let us pass them. On our decent, the clouds finally broke and we were given a beautiful view of the valley below. Of course, mountaineering isn't about the summit - I learned more on that trip (where we got our asses handed to us on four separate summit attempts on 3 different mountins!) than I have on more technically challenging yet successful climbs. We later learned that someone died soon after we decended because the rest of the cornice gave way while they tried to cross. No matter how much you think it through, how hard you train, how much you want it, sometimes things just don't go as planned.

A Rainy Day at Amsterdam's Hortus Botanicus

Fri, 26 Jul 2019 17:33:59 GMT

A perfect way to spend a rainy day in AMS

Amsterdam is a wonderfully vibrant city with some of the world’s best architecture, museums, restaurants and parks. I could spend all day strolling the canals, shopping the small boutiques in De 9 Straatjes, and people watching over a cup of coffee (or a glass of wine!) at one of the city’s many outdoor cafés. The weather in Amsterdam can be a bit unpredictable, but rainy afternoons are a perfect time to visit Hortus Botanicus, Amsterdam’s botanical gardens, in the city’s Plantage district. It’s been operating for more than 375 years (how incredible is that?!?) and was founded by the city to serve as an herb garden for apothecaries and doctors, first using plants and seeds brought back by traders of the East India Company. Such wonderful history! There is a lovely café that’s worth a stop too, so keep this in mind as a lunch option if you find yourself there mid-day. All of the buildings at Hortus Botanicus are beautiful, but the Palm House will always be my very favorite. In the summer, the palm trees get to spend time outside and the space is used for yoga, concerts and weddings. Swoon! #hortusbotanicus

A Tale of Sisterhood - Good Traveling Times

Wed, 24 Jul 2019 14:28:38 GMT

What I would do to be a kid again

I watched something awesome unfold recently. Two little girls, probably no older than 6, were playing separately on the town green when one of the girls marched up to the other. With no hint of self-consciousness, no concern of what the outcome might be, she said: “Want to be my friend?” And the other little girl said “Ok!” and away they went…new friends, off to conquer the world. We should all be so bold!

We’re cooking up something really special…an opportunity for adventurous, interesting women to come together to build long lasting friendships and to explore some of the world’s most awe-inspiring places. After all, the world could use more friendship, more exploration, more sisterhood. We’d love for you to join us! #vivalasisterhood

A Cacophony of Sights, Smells and Sounds

Mon, 22 Jul 2019 19:50:24 GMT

KTM - A place like no other

Kathmandu is a fabulous cacophony of sights, smells and sounds; a weird and wonderful place. Exploring the city by foot is a great way to observe the gentle mayhem that exists in this town. A glance upwards reveals a ridiculous tangle of wires that is symbolic of the chaos that makes this city so marvelous. Kids walk to school hand in hand, all in neat uniforms, some with eyes lined in dark kohl. The divine smell of incense slowly wafts through the dusty air as tiny Suzuki Marutis speed through the narrow streets. Drivers make liberal use of their comically meek horns as they dodge cows and dogs and potholes big enough to swallow all. Men in the latest knock-off fashion, topped with a traditional Nepali topi, and women in brightly colored kurtas and saris cavalierly stroll through the streets, unbothered by the clutter and noise around them, blessing themselves as they pass temples and shrines that are found all over Kathmandu. People take great pride in maintaining their businesses and homes, sweeping the entries, hanging flower garlands in the doorway and sprinkling water to keep the air clean. Smiling faces approach with offers of Tiger Balm, statuettes of Hindu gods, singing bowls and Gurkha knives, reveling in the sport of bargaining. Shop owners play their music extra loud, sometimes placing a speaker just outside the entrance of their store – a wonderful mix of Buddhist chants, the theme song from Titanic and the latest pounding club hits – to provide an eclectic soundtrack to the day’s activities. Despite all of the noise and pandemonium, a quick turn down a dark, cool, dirt-path alley way opens up to a quiet open-air garden café strewn with delicate flowers and potted plants, prayer flags fluttering above. KTM is just this amazing city of excitement, enchantment and beauty is easily a favorite of ours – we can’t wait to be back. #travelnotes @ Kathmandu, Nepal

Fez's Medina Holds Many Secrets

Wed, 17 Jul 2019 19:26:09 GMT

Peace within the ancient medina

We awoke early to the beautiful sounds of adhan, the haunting call to prayer that sings out first thing and then again throughout the day. We decided to explore the medina first thing, mostly still shuttered, slow to come to life.

The medina mid-day is an exciting place with a symphony of sounds and smells, bright colors and crowds of people going about their day. But early it was quiet and we were able to ramble through the maze of madrasas, fondouks, souks and masjids at a much slower pace, taking it all in without hurry. Roaming the walled walkways, we came upon an open door, the morning sunlight streaming in on men bent in morning prayer, welcoming the day. There was a peace and quiet that had settled over the ancient medina. It was one of my favorite moments of the trip.

In one corner is a mosque, al-Quarawiyyin, was founded by a well-educated woman, Fatima al-Fihri, in the 9th century and remains one of Morocco’s religious centers. Its associated university, which is also still operating, was established at the same time by the same woman and is thought by many to be the oldest in the world.